Slideshow = 17 photos to see that watch from every angle
Special thanks to Tempoinverso.com for entrusting us with the tested Patek Philippe
The "master's" claw
The great Gerald Genta's "pencil's stroke" is immediately recognizable in the Nautilus, as he was the designer of a large amount of mythical watches of the 1970's, that are still relevant 40 years later.
Such as a lot of his creations, the Nautilus was first born with only two hands, for a maximum of soberness.
The complications have only been introduced in 2005 with the 3712 steel reference.
Halted in 2006, this model reaches an astronomical quotation on the second-hand market.
The 3712 has been since replaced by the 5712 reference, available in steel, white gold or pink gold.
A strong personality
Recognisable among all, the original shape of the Nautilus' case is not only ornamental: the lateral "ears" are used to fix the bezel, such as on a boat's porthole.
And, at first glance, what can be considered as a very particularly designed case, very (too much?) 1970's tagged, appears to be at second glance of an extreme elegance around the wrist.
The case's steel work, alternating satiny and mirror finishing, is of very high-level quality.
The 240 calibre is also worth the trip.
Its finishing is of a great refinement, with notably hand-made chamfering.
But it is especially its micro-rotor, made of 22-carat gold, which will enthral the purists and the aesthetes.
It is indeed an ideal compromise between the beauty of a manual winding movement and the practical side of an automatic movement: the watch winds itself up "by itself" but an invading oscillating weight does not obstruct the view on the movement.
A unique dial
Another characteristic element of this Patek Philippe: its seeming disorganised dial.
Indeed, at the first glance, this dial can seem cacophonous for lack of balance in displaying the various data.
Power reserve between 10 and 11 o'clock, date and moon phases indications between 6 and 8 o'clock, even going beyond 6 o'clock, elbowing the seconds' counter, positioned between 3 and 5 o'clock...
It is actually one of the main assets of this watch: this seeming "disorder" confers it some spell and a very strong identity.
And here again, the finishing is exceptional: the horizontal charcoal grey guilloche work is completed by a "sun satiny" treatment that allows amazing plays of lights.
One can spend hours admiring the reflections...
A watch being above all conceived to be worn, how about that once it is around the wrist?
The comfort is correct without being optimum: the quite salient crown can irritate the upper part of the wrist.
The night-time legibility is not perfect: the hands' and markers' brightness being a little bit weak after a few hours.
And the 60m-limited waterproofness will strongly reduce the aquatic use....
Nevertheless, no regrets: the alligator strap is anyway too beautiful to be wet!
This Nautilus is really an exception in the Patek Philippe's range: it succeeds in adding to the homemade excellence the dash of fantasy and poetry that can sometimes lack to the other productions of the brand.
It is an aesthete's watch. Wearing it provides a rare pleasure, for which one will be ready to make compromise on the functionality....
- a unique design
- the beauty of the movement and its gold micro-rotor
- the very high-level finishing
- a perfectible legibility
- the comfort when wearing it, depending on the size of your wrist
- journalist's wrist = 17 cm
- brand website : Patek Philippe