Patek Philippe Nautilus 5712G

By Florian Matrion - December 7, 2010
Nautilus 5712G Diaporama
If you think the two-handed and steel-cased Nautilus too sober, here is the test of a bolder configuration: the grey gold Patek Philippe 5712G with moon phases.
Exclusive! review of the Nautilus 5712G. Manufacturer data, photos, editor's opinion and watch retail price on thewatchobserver.co.uk
Editor's opinion
77.5/100
Users' rating
82/100

Slideshow = 17 photos to see that watch from every angle

 

Special thanks to Tempoinverso.com for entrusting us with the tested Patek Philippe

 

The "master's" claw

The great Gerald Genta's "pencil's stroke" is immediately recognizable in the Nautilus, as he was the designer of a large amount of mythical watches of the 1970's, that are still relevant 40 years later.

Such as a lot of his creations, the Nautilus was first born with only two hands, for a maximum of soberness.
The complications have only been introduced in 2005 with the 3712 steel reference.
Halted in 2006, this model reaches an astronomical quotation on the second-hand market.

The 3712 has been since replaced by the 5712 reference, available in steel, white gold or pink gold.

 

 The seeming “disorder” of the dial confers it some spell and a very strong identity.A strong personality

Recognisable among all, the original shape of the Nautilus' case is not only ornamental: the lateral "ears" are used to fix the bezel, such as on a boat's porthole.

And, at first glance, what can be considered as a very particularly designed case, very (too much?) 1970's tagged, appears to be at second glance of an extreme elegance around the wrist.
The case's steel work, alternating satiny and mirror finishing, is of very high-level quality.

The 240 calibre is also worth the trip.
Its finishing is of a great refinement, with notably hand-made chamfering.
But it is especially its micro-rotor, made of 22-carat gold, which will enthral the purists and the aesthetes.

 

It is indeed an ideal compromise between the beauty of a manual winding movement and the practical side of an automatic movement: the watch winds itself up "by itself" but an invading oscillating weight does not obstruct the view on the movement.

 

A unique dial

Another characteristic element of this Patek Philippe: its seeming disorganised dial.

Indeed, at the first glance, this dial can seem cacophonous for lack of balance in displaying the various data.
Power reserve between 10 and 11 o'clock, date and moon phases indications between 6 and 8 o'clock, even going beyond 6 o'clock, elbowing the seconds' counter, positioned between 3 and 5 o'clock...

 

The 240 calibre is also worth the trip. But it is especially its micro-rotor, made of 22-carat gold, which will enthral the purists and the aesthetes.

It is actually one of the main assets of this watch: this seeming "disorder" confers it some spell and a very strong identity.

And here again, the finishing is exceptional: the horizontal charcoal grey guilloche work is completed by a "sun satiny" treatment that allows amazing plays of lights.
One can spend hours admiring the reflections...

 

The functionality

A watch being above all conceived to be worn, how about that once it is around the wrist?

The comfort is correct without being optimum: the quite salient crown can irritate the upper part of the wrist.

 

The night-time legibility is not perfect: the hands' and markers' brightness being a little bit weak after a few hours.

And the 60m-limited waterproofness will strongly reduce the aquatic use....
Nevertheless, no regrets: the alligator strap is anyway too beautiful to be wet!

 

Conclusions

This Nautilus is really an exception in the Patek Philippe's range: it succeeds in adding to the homemade excellence the dash of fantasy and poetry that can sometimes lack to the other productions of the brand.
It is an aesthete's watch. Wearing it provides a rare pleasure, for which one will be ready to make compromise on the functionality....

 

The +:

  • a unique design
  • the beauty of the movement and its gold micro-rotor
  • the very high-level finishing

 

The –:

  • a perfectible legibility
  • the comfort when wearing it, depending on the size of your wrist

 

Further information:

Slideshow
17 pictures to see this watch in all its angles
Click on one photo to enlarge the watch gallery
  • Nautilus 5712G
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Manufacturer data

Brand Patek Philippe
Model name Nautilus 5712G
Reference number 5712G
Case material White gold 18 carats
Case diameter (without crown) 40 mm
Case diameter (crown included) 43,91 mm
Movement type Automatic
Calibre Patek 240 PS IRM C LU
Calibre base Manufacture
Functions Second
Power reserve
Moon phases
Minute
Hour
Date
Crystal Dual-face crystal with anti-reflective coating
Power reserve ability 48h
Transparent back No
Lug width 25,32 mm
Length from lug to lug 44,20 mm
Case thickness 8,79 mm
Water resistant 60 m
Strap material Alligator
Clasp type Deployment clasp
Clasp type White gold 18 carats
Total weight 140 grammes
Retail price France at 2010/12/07 28,600.00 € calc

Editor's opinion 77.5/100

Confort (/15) 12
more Movement (/20) 16
Movement Optimisation / Garnishment (/5) 5
Ease of handling and adjustment (/5) 4
Movement control proceeded by the Manufacture / horlogical awards (/3) 3
Power reserve ability (/2) 1
Complications (/5) 3
more Finishing (/20) 19
Dial finishing (/6) 6
Case finishing (/6) 6
Quality of garnishment / caseback engraving quality (/2) 2
Crystal quality (/4) 3
Clasp finishing (inner and extern) (/2) 2
more Practicality (/20) 11.5
Diurnal legibility (/5) 4
Night legibility (/4) 2
Water resistant (/3) 0.5
Strap : ease of size adjustment + ease of substitution (/4) 1
Clasp : quality and safety (/4) 4
more Bonus (/10) 5
Limited edition (/3) 0
Watch delivered with several straps (/2) 0
Quality of the watch box (/1) 1
Portability with shirtsleeves buttoned (/2) 2
Goodies included (/1) 1
Understandability of the brochure (/1) 1
Value for money (/15) 14
When to wear it ?
For the yearly board of directors

Users' rating 82/100

Confort (/15) 13.5
Movement (/20) 17.5
Finishing (/20) 19
Practicality (/20) 16
Bonus (/10) 6.5
Value for money (/15) 10.5
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