With this Calatrava 5120 around my wrist, I try to get to the bottom of it !
The 35mm diameter is out of fashion, which means nothing really – this watch isn't in fashion - the yellow gold isn't stylish either : this is an eternally classic watch industry metal.
Slimline, this is one of the thinnest self-winding watches.
The bend of the lugs is such that the silhouette is not flat at all but well presented and natural on the wrist without being too alluring.
The Calatrava cross on the crown ? Perfect !
A sober dial
A simple white enamel dial, without unnecessary literature, with black roman numerals, which go around the right way (no clumsy reversal between 4 and 8).
And the black hour, minute and...
- Wait ! they've forgotten the second hand ??
- No of course not ! We're talking about Patek Philippe :under the paint there is gold !
Counting the seconds is good for the market economy.
But here at Patek, one sits under a tree at the edge of a river and watches time pass by.
A bezel which strongly distinguishes it from the other Calatravas
The Clous de Paris bezel strongly distinguishes it from the other Calatravas - not a fakir carpet as macro photos may have you believe.
On the contrary, the surface treatment allows the light to play about, contrasting with the polished surfaceof the middle and the lugs, accentuating the opening of the dial.
And behind, below the sapphire case-back, the 240 calibre, slimline (2,53 mm) motion made of a rareoff-centre micro rotor in 22-carat gold, 27 ruby, six bridge, Gyromax balance at 21600 vibrations per hour...
A genuine luxury engine which has been driving Patek's complications and perpetual dates certified by thePoinçon de Genève since 1977 : some kind of dependable, astounding and beautiful work we all take pleasure in.
This 5120 would be the quintessence of Calatrava !
More than the “entry level” Patek Philippe which might look too dull or too sober to some people...
This classical watch, subtly different and driven by an immense calibre, is a true ray of genius on a Swiss night.
Still this ray requires the ability to distinguish and appreciate it.
In the end, it is a very selfish pleasure and handing it on to future generations is not as straightforward as it may seem, as many have other things on their minds at the moment. Nevertheless, one day their turn will come...and only then can we evaluate the advertising.
The + :
- a timeless and elegant watch
- a great movement
The – :
- a timepiece for connoisseurs
- a case diameter that might not seduce everybody
Further information :
- journalist's wrist size = 17,5 cm