Milus TIRION TriRetrograde Seconds DLC

By Florian Matrion - May 9, 2011
TIRION TriRetrograde Seconds DLC Diaporama
More famous for its cufflinks than for its watches, Milus here brings us its TIRION TriRetrograde Seconds DLC. But isn't a triple retrograde seconds just a little over-the-top for a man alone? Review.
Exclusive! review of the TIRION TriRetrograde Seconds DLC. Manufacturer data, photos, editor's opinion and watch retail price on thewatchobserver.co.uk
Editor's opinion
59/100
Users' rating
69/100

Slideshow: 13 photos to see this watch from every angle.

 

Overall view

At first sight, we immediately understand that there are good reasons for the elaborate name of this timepiece: Milus TIRION TriRetrograde Seconds DLC.
It fits the facts indeed: the eye drifts away in a network of hands and a collection of bridges placed side by side in a multileveled dial!

Then, slowly, this seemingly chaotic universe starts making sense: lavishly sized indexes mark and align the periphery, while the hours and minutes hands rule the foreground.

But there's one mysterious realm yet to be uncovered: the seconds...

A very specific display of the seconds

It's in the second's display that the full specificity of this watch unveils itself, with the triple retrograde seconds function.

Each of the seconds' dedicated hands shows 20 seconds in succession, and then jumps back to its starting point, handing it over to the next one.

This slow ballet is played on several layers as the dial, opening on various levels, shows the mechanical process at work: each hand's cam and spiral spring action is now revealed.

 

Triple retrograde seconds function: each of the seconds' dedicated hands shows 20 seconds in succession, and then jumps back to its starting point, handing it over to the next one.

Full-depth dial

The materials' choice in colors emphasizes this feeling of depth: black for the case bottom carbon fiber and the retrograde area's DLC, steel for the bridges and hands, plus blue for screws and red for rubies.

Black carbon fiber is also used on the bezel, circling the domed sapphire crystal.

This rather unusual process brings out a lights-oriented display, smoothening the hardness of the case's matte black DLC (Diamond Like Carbon) coating.

Both curves of the middle and of the case's lugs, give birth to an outline one could easily qualify as 'bio-design', with its supple, almost animal shapes, as opposed to the dial's harshness and straight lines.

 

 

The strap, narrowly matching the inter-lugs space, adds to this seeming flexibility dimension.

There's an annoying element though: the clasp's rigidity, which makes this watch uneasy to wear on a small wrist.

Against all indications, this strap is not made of carbon fiber. It's veal leather: telling them apart is actually very difficult!

The crown is surrounded by a mounted protuberance, fixed with two screws. Is it for protection? Or shape extension maybe? 
As this Milus has already been gifted with an overgenerous diameter (45mm, without the crown), this excrescence feels quite useless, especially when there's another, similar one on the other side of the case... bearing no obvious technical reason.

 

The triple retrograde seconds module, named Milus 3838, has been added to the ETA automatic caliber.

On the movement side

The triple retrograde seconds module, named Milus 3838, has been added to the ETA automatic calibre, probably a 2892.

This firm and certified mechanical basis shall pull the complication efficiently, along with torque and steadiness.

However, it cannot be viewed through the crystal case while in action, because of it showing  on the dial side.

The oscillating weight in the form of the Milus logo, and the screws, have been blued for more aesthetics.

 

 

Conclusions

One cannot help being moved by the amazingly strong identity the Milus TIRION TriRetrograde Seconds DLC conveys.
It will answer every need a powerful watch-making addict can ask for, as he'll probably be happily satisfied with the triple hand-fitting, the DLC and carbon fiber manufacturing, and the bionic case of this new version of the TIRION.

 

Pros:

  • playful display of the seconds
  • powerful design, that unites shape, materials and complication

 

Cons:

  • stiffness of the case/strap pair, limiting its use to wider wrists
  • slow date change

 

Additional information:

  • journalist's wrist size = 17,5cm
Slideshow
13 pictures to see this watch in all its angles
Click on one photo to enlarge the watch gallery
  • TIRION TriRetrograde Seconds DLC
  • TIRION TriRetrograde Seconds DLC
  • TIRION TriRetrograde Seconds DLC
  • TIRION TriRetrograde Seconds DLC
  • TIRION TriRetrograde Seconds DLC
  • TIRION TriRetrograde Seconds DLC
  • TIRION TriRetrograde Seconds DLC
  • TIRION TriRetrograde Seconds DLC
  • TIRION TriRetrograde Seconds DLC
  • TIRION TriRetrograde Seconds DLC
  • TIRION TriRetrograde Seconds DLC
  • TIRION TriRetrograde Seconds DLC
  • TIRION TriRetrograde Seconds DLC

Manufacturer data

Brand Milus
Model name TIRION TriRetrograde Seconds DLC
Reference number TIRI-SP01
Case material Steel with DLC coating
Case diameter (without crown) 45 mm
Case diameter (crown included) 48.52 mm
Movement type Automatic
Calibre ETA + Milus 3838 module
Calibre base ETA
Functions Three retrograding seconds
Minute
Hour
Date
Crystal Camberred sapphire crystal
Power reserve ability 42h
Transparent back Yes
Lug width 22.96 mm
Length from lug to lug 53.70 mm
Case thickness 14.03 mm
Water resistant 30 m
Strap material Calfskin carbon fibre like
Clasp type Pin buckle
Clasp type Steel with DLC coating
Total weight 105 grams
Retail price France at 2011/05/09 8,900.00 € calc

Editor's opinion 59/100

Confort (/15) 11
more Movement (/20) 9
Movement Optimisation / Garnishment (/5) 2
Ease of handling and adjustment (/5) 4
Movement control proceeded by the Manufacture / horlogical awards (/3) 0
Power reserve ability (/2) 1
Complications (/5) 2
more Finishing (/20) 13
Dial finishing (/6) 5
Case finishing (/6) 4
Quality of garnishment / caseback engraving quality (/2) 1
Crystal quality (/4) 2
Clasp finishing (inner and extern) (/2) 1
more Practicality (/20) 12
Diurnal legibility (/5) 4
Night legibility (/4) 3
Water resistant (/3) 0
Strap : ease of size adjustment + ease of substitution (/4) 2
Clasp : quality and safety (/4) 3
more Bonus (/10) 3
Limited edition (/3) 0
Watch delivered with several straps (/2) 0
Quality of the watch box (/1) 1
Portability with shirtsleeves buttoned (/2) 1
Goodies included (/1) 0
Understandability of the brochure (/1) 1
Value for money (/15) 11
When to wear it ?
When wearing Milus cufflinks!

Users' rating 69/100

Confort (/15) 11.5
Movement (/20) 14
Finishing (/20) 16
Practicality (/20) 13.5
Bonus (/10) 4.5
Value for money (/15) 10
Rate this watch
  • Captcha