IWC Portugaise Calendrier Perpétuel

By Florian Matrion - July 27, 2010
Portugaise Calendrier Perpétuel Diaporama
When the great classic of IWC, the Portuguese, meets this remarkable complication that is the perpetual calendar, the expectations are very high. Let’s see how the Schaffhausen’s brand gives the answers.
Exclusive! review of the Portugaise Calendrier Perpétuel. Manufacturer data, photos, editor's opinion and watch retail price on thewatchobserver.co.uk
Editor's opinion
73.5/100
Users' rating
78/100

An elegant watch

At the first glance, it is a feeling of elegance that stands out of this IWC.
The very beautiful alligator strap, the grey gold casing, the very dark and changing blue dial as well as the dial finishing are perfectly controlled.

The grey gold bears its name wrong…
It indeed offers very warm reflects, distilled with parsimony thanks to the brushing of the straight parts of the casing as well as the rounded parts of the bezel or the back of the casing.

This finishing, combined with the design of the lugs, lives down the thickness of the watch.
This impression is confirmed once the watch is around the wrist, where it finds its place and could even be forgotten, as long as the wrist is not too small !

 

A harmonious dial

The dial happily plays on the finishing and the aspect.
Trademark of the brand, the opening of the dial is very wide and the time is perfectly readable. 

The sub-dials allow a complete display of the calendar, the power reserve, and the moon with its phases as well as the number of the days before the next full moon. 

In order to allow a good readability of all the available information, IWC worked very finely on the contrasts of the hands and the sub-dials. 

Only drawback : the aperture of the year and its discs lack of discretion inside of a very harmonious dial.

 

The perpetual calendar is a very accomplished and delicate complication that IWC completely controls insomuch that it provides a substitute aperture that allows the display of the year until 2499 !The movement

On the other side of the watch, the caliber 51614 unveils itself very widely with a sapphire back that seems huge – for our great pleasure.

Once more, the realization is beautiful and well accomplished.

It allows seeing the oscillating weight with the Probus Scaffusia locket, the automatic Pellaton self-winding system, and the barrel that allows a 7-day power reserve as well as the vibrating balance of 21.600 alternations per hour.

Little regret : the modular conception of the caliber puts indeed the complication on the dial side and make thus invisible the specificity of this wonderful model.

 

Finally, the perpetual calendar is a very accomplished and delicate complication that IWC completely controls insomuch that it provides a substitute aperture that allows the display of the year until 2499 !

Accompanied like here by a 7-day power reserve, by a calendar setting by the crown, it nearly allows to believe that it is a normal watch.
Be careful nevertheless when setting the date : the system does not allow going back.

 

Conclusion

With this new Perpetual Calendar Portuguese, IWC gives a rare watch.
Despite important sizes, the interest of the complication, the pleasure to wear it around the wrist and to watch it prevail to a large extent.

 

The + :

  • the perpetual calendar
  • the general elegance
  • the quality of the finishing

 

The – :

  • the sizes, especially the thickness
  • the white aperture to read the year

 

Further information :

  • journalist’s wrist = 17,5 cm
  • brand Internet website : IWC
Slideshow
12 pictures to see this watch in all its angles
Click on one photo to enlarge the watch gallery
  • Portugaise Calendrier Perpétuel
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Manufacturer data

Brand IWC
Model name Portugaise Calendrier Perpétuel
Reference number IWC502121
Case material Grey gold
Case diameter (without crown) 44,2 mm
Case diameter (crown included) 45,8 mm
Movement type Automatic
Calibre IWC 51614
Calibre base IWC 89360
Functions Power reserve
Perpetual Calendar
Moon phases
Minute
Hour
Crystal Dual-face crystal with anti-reflective coating
Power reserve ability 168h (7 days)
Transparent back Yes
Lug width 21,9 mm
Length from lug to lug 52,1 mm
Case thickness 15,48 mm
Water resistant 30 m
Strap material Alligator
Clasp type Deployment clasp
Clasp type Grey gold
Total weight 168 grammes
Retail price France at 2010/07/27 31,200.00 € calc

Editor's opinion 73.5/100

Confort (/15) 13
more Movement (/20) 16
Movement Optimisation / Garnishment (/5) 3.5
Ease of handling and adjustment (/5) 5
Movement control proceeded by the Manufacture / horlogical awards (/3) 1
Power reserve ability (/2) 2
Complications (/5) 4.5
more Finishing (/20) 17
Dial finishing (/6) 5.5
Case finishing (/6) 5.5
Quality of garnishment / caseback engraving quality (/2) 1
Crystal quality (/4) 3
Clasp finishing (inner and extern) (/2) 2
more Practicality (/20) 10.5
Diurnal legibility (/5) 3.5
Night legibility (/4) 0
Water resistant (/3) 0
Strap : ease of size adjustment + ease of substitution (/4) 3
Clasp : quality and safety (/4) 4
more Bonus (/10) 4
Limited edition (/3) 0
Watch delivered with several straps (/2) 0
Quality of the watch box (/1) 1
Portability with shirtsleeves buttoned (/2) 1
Goodies included (/1) 1
Understandability of the brochure (/1) 1
Value for money (/15) 13
When to wear it ?
For New Year's Eve 2499 !

Users' rating 78/100

Confort (/15) 12
Movement (/20) 16.5
Finishing (/20) 16
Practicality (/20) 15.5
Bonus (/10) 7
Value for money (/15) 11.5
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