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Breguet, Type XX / XXI

Issued by The Watch Observer, on 28 Jan 2011
Breguet, Type XX / XXI Slideshow Straight out of the 1950's, the Type XX/XXI collection has some of the most well-known Breguet models. Let's review this perfect link between the post-war period and 20th century.

Editor's opinion71/100

Rating detail Compare this watch All the Tests

Slideshow: 11 photos to see that watch from every angle 

The readers' attention is drawn to the fact that the photographed model corresponds to the old reference of the Breguet Type XX.
The actual model in the brand's catalogue has a steel-colored crown instead of a gold one.

Special thanks to Tempoinverso.com who lent us the watch tested for this review.

 

Foreward

During the 50's, the French air force drafted a list of specifications for a reliable and readable chronograph with a "flyback" function, the Type XX.
Several manufacturers, including Breguet, submitted a model.

A few years later, the specifications are modified, primarily for the purpose of improving the liability of the models but also to space out the maintenance periods.
The Type XXI is born.

Breguet who was already manufacturing aircraft reading instruments for the air force, thus created as early as the 50's several versions of chronographs meeting these specifications for the French navy and the CEV ("Centre d'Essai en Vol"  - or Flight Test Center - the department of the air force that handles the testing and rating of military planes; you can find the "CEV" engraving at the bottom of the cases of certain vintage watches).

 

In order to maximize the readability, the dial, hands and markers rely on contrasts and proportions.

After its military career, the model is made obsolete and retired in the 70'.
It is then relaunched in 1995, shortly before the acquisition of the brand by the Swatch Group, staying faithful to the original models.

 

Excellent Readability

The current model retains the best elements of its predecessor.
In order to maximize the readability, the dial, hands and markers rely on contrasts and proportions.

Indeed, the size of the hands are designed relative to their function. Thus, all four main hands are quite readable (three of them being thicker than the others), while the small seconds hand and the chronograph's are thinner.

 

Likewise, the subdials follow the same logic, with a larger minutes dial for the chronograph, located at 3 o'clock.

Even with this emphasis on readability, the result is quite balanced.

One drawback: the gorgeous minutes subdial for the chronograph has 15 markings with a
30-minute totalizator.
This, with a dragging hand (instead of a minute-to-minute jumping one) greatly complicates the reading of the time measured.

 

The style, contained size and quality of this watch make it very elegant and sporty at the same time, thanks to its waterproofness and military origins.

 

An Elegant Case

The rest of the watch has a more opulent look.

The steel casing is polished and fluted.
The bezel is also polished, and the graduations are sunken.

Some will find this watch a little too shiny, even with the mitigating effect of the flutes.

 

The style, contained size and quality of this watch make it very elegant and sporty at the same time, thanks to its waterproofness and military origins.

In other words, it's up to you to decide how to wear it!

 

Movement

The movement of this model is the Breguet 582 automatic chronograph movement, with a "flyback" function.
This function was very useful to pilots before the advent of modern electronics, allowing the resetting of the chronograph while in use, without having to stop it.
The pilots could thus calculate two or more times one after the other.

The Breguet 582 movement is built on the very reliable Lemania 1350, modified primarily to accommodate the flyback function.

 

Conclusions

The Breguet Type XX is a timeless watch.
Its style and effective esthetic, along with its prestigious origins and high-quality production, make it a very interesting time-keeper - indeed a must in one's pilot watch collection.

 

The +:

  • excellent legibility
  • its polyvalence
  • the Flyback function

 

The -:

  • the totalizator's 15 graduations of the 30-minute chronograph
  • its thickness

 

Complementary Information:

  • tester's wrist size: 17.5 cm

Manufacturer data

BrandBreguet
Model nameType XX / XXI
Reference number3800ST/92/9W6
Case materialSteel
Case diameter (without crown)39.30 mm
Case diameter (crown included)43.47 mm
Movement typeAutomatic
CalibreBreguet 582
Calibre baseLemania 1350
FunctionsChronograph
Flyback
Hour
Minute
Second
CrystalSapphire glass
Power reserve ability48h
Transparent backNo
Lug width20.47 mm
Length from lug to lug45.53 mm
Case thickness14.88 mm
Water resistant100 m
Strap materialAlligator
Clasp typeDeployment clasp
Clasp materialSteel
Total weight94 grams
Retail price France at 01-28-20115,800.00 €convertisseur

Editor's opinion : 71/100

Comfort (/15) 13
Movement (/20)more 11.5
Finishing (/20)more 14.5
Practicality (/20)more 14
Bonus (/10)more 4
Value for money (/15) 14
When to wear it ?
At the VIP cocktail of the Farnborough International Airshow!
Breguet, Type XX / XXI
Breguet, Type XX / XXI
Breguet, Type XX / XXI
Breguet, Type XX / XXI
Breguet, Type XX / XXI
Breguet, Type XX / XXI
Breguet, Type XX / XXI
Breguet, Type XX / XXI
Breguet, Type XX / XXI
Breguet, Type XX / XXI
Breguet, Type XX / XXI
Breguet, Type XX / XXI
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